Dress codes in the country are, first and foremost, practical, providing all-weather protection. Clothes will need to be suitable for country pursuits, draughty houses and inclement weather. Traditional country fabrics are tweed, wool and waxed cotton; functional country wear has, in recent years, become extremely fashionable.
Dress Codes
•Black is traditionally seen as a city colour; men wear brown rather than black shoes and may choose a tweed jacket rather than a fine wool.
•Women will probably only wear black for formal evening events. Tailored jackets are discarded in favour of gilets, jumpers or cardigans.
•Outdoor weatherproof jackets are worn in preference to woollen overcoats.
•The countryside colour palate is muted, tending to browns and greens rather than black and navy.
•Scarves and woollen or fake fur hats are frequently worn by women, while flat caps for men may be worn.
•Wallking shoes, boots and wellingtons are all practical country footwear. Discard muddy shoes at the door and revert to slip-on shoes such as loafers indoors.
Tweed Caps
In 1571 an Act of Parliament decreed that on Sundays and holidays all males aged six and over, who were not members of the nobility, should wear a woven wool cap. Although this Act was later repealed, the cap had become the mark of the working man. At the other end of the spectrum members of the aristocracy and Royal Family adopted the tweed cap as practical headgear when out shooting. In the post-war years, working men discarded their flat caps but the eminently practical country cap survived and – fifty years on – has become a fashion icon.
Waxed Jackets
Waxed cotton was first invented for the clipper fleet when linseed oil (extracted from the flax plants used to make linen) was used to treat cotton sails and seamen’s clothing. The treated cloth was waterproof but became stiff in cold weather.
In the 1930s a new process was invented, when cotton cloth was treated with cupro-ammonia and coated with paraffin wax. The new, more flexible, fabric became indispensable for robust outdoor wear, much favoured by farmers and gamekeepers.
The chemical treatments meant that the fabric was originally only available in black or dark olive. The olive could vary considerably, so it became traditional for olive waxed cotton garments to boast a standardised brown corduroy collar.
Now adopted as the uniform of Britain’s country classes, waxed cotton jackets have moved beyond their beginnings as practical workwear. They are de rigueur at any social gathering in the countryside where protection from the elements is paramount – especially horse racing, horse trials, point to points and country fairs, and are often accessorised with tweed caps, silk headscarves and wellington boots.
The Wellington Boot
Arthur Wellesley, first Duke of Wellington and the general who led his nation’s troops to victory at the Battle of Waterloo (1815), instructed his shoemaker, George Hoby of St James Street, London, to fashion a boot out of calfskin leather. The boot was an adaptation of the traditional ‘Hessian’ design, cut lower on the leg so they were more comfortable for riding.
Leather ‘wellingtons’ proved enduringly popular – practical in battle, but appropriately stylish for evening wear.
Their transition to rubber boots followed the invention of the vulcanisation process for rubber by Charles Goodyear (1800–60). Wellingtons proved invaluable in the trenches of World War I, while in peacetime they kept fishermen’s feet dry and protected farmers from mud. Made of natural rubber with non-slip soles they were the ultimate practical footwear.
Now made in a range of fashionable colours and patterns, wellington boots have become the must-have footwear for country events, festivals and rainy days – a perfect fashion icon for a nation that enjoys the outdoor life, however unpredictable the weather.
The Classic Silk Scarf
A simple square of brightly patterned silk, folded in half to make a triangle and tied in a neat bow under the chin, is a style much beloved by the late Queen and copied by fashionistas everywhere. It is a fashionable way of protecting the hair when outdoors. Experiment with three ways of tying your scarf:
•Fold the square diagonally to make a triangle shape; tie it under your chin, leaving the triangle hanging behind and accessorise with sunglasses and gloves.
•Using the same triangle shape, tie the scarf behind your head. This ‘bandana’ style will frame your face, adding a touch of piratical glamour.
•For the style made famous by Grace Kelly, fold the scarf into a triangle shape, place it on the head, and bring the corners under the chin, cross them and push them to the back of your neck where you should tie them, catching any loose material under the knot.
Equestrian Style
Several iconic items of British tailoring owe their origins to riding practicalities. The long Regency tailcoat was an adaptation of a gentleman’s hunting jacket, with a pronounced centre vent for ease of sitting in the saddle, and it soon found itself in civilised drawing rooms, allegedly introduced by the dandy Beau Brummell, paired with tight breeches and knee-length boots, and finished off with a ‘stock’, a kind of cravat fastened with a decorative pin. All these items of dress can still be seen on display in the refined world of dressage.
Today, the well-dressed equestrian can showcase the best of traditional British tailoring, which is complemented by the latest innovations in fabric technology. For general purposes, a tweed hacking jacket is a traditional, stylish and pragmatic choice. Named after the ‘hack’ or ‘hackney’, a saddle horse chosen for everyday riding pleasure, this serviceable jacket, with its plentiful pockets and comfortable fit, was an indispensable item of clothing for British landowners and aristocrats. Its flattering fitted silhouette became the model for the modern suit jacket.
Hacking jackets are made of tweed, single-breasted, with pronounced shoulders. They are cut quite long, with three or four horn buttons. They have short lapels and a long centre vent at the back. They are well-endowed with side pockets, a chest pocket and a large poacher’s pocket on the inside
They have a ghillie collar (which allows the jacket to be buttoned up at the neck) and a throat tab, which can be fastened across the neck when the collar of the jacket is upturned.
Ladies’ hacking jackets are fitted, hugging the torso with room over the seat and hips. High-cut arm holes aid ease of movement and a slightly longer sleeve length provides protection against the elements. Modern innovations use lighter more weather-resistant material and may even provide extra pockets for mobile phones.
The hacking jacket can be paired, for everyday riding, with a classic cotton or wool button-down shirt, or a neutral coloured lambswool sweater, and riding breeches. These fitted trousers are made of four-way stretch material, reinforced at the knee, and in some cases at the seat. They will usually be worn in white, beige, navy, black or olive, and are tapered so they can be tucked into riding boots.
All-weather riding is facilitated by the wide range of waterproof clothing now available, from waxed or Gore-Tex jackets to paddock jackets – these quilted, boxy jackets, with their contrasting velvet collars, are ubiquitous. Waterproof riding gloves are a useful addition. The final finishing touch is a specialist riding helmet, which meets approved safety standards. While a tweed cap is certainly a fashionable choice, especially when attending equestrian events, no serious rider would forego crucial head protection.
Whatever your choice, you can rest assured that you will cut a fine figure, and you will be able to enjoy the perfect marriage of form and function that is the hallmark of Britain’s best tailoring traditions.
